This trip definitely deserves a post of its own, as it's something I've been
fascinated by after seeing a documentary about it at as a kid. Never did I think I'd be lucky enough to see it for real, let alone
"drive" down it on a bike.
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The upper part of the Road of Death
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The Death Road was built in the 1930s by Paraguayan prisoners-of-war. And quite the shoddy job they made of it, because as well as the almost complete
absence of crash barriers or passing points, it is susceptible to landslides,
fog, and other adverse weather conditions. It used to be the main road between the
Yungas region and La Paz, and the 200-300 deaths per year well justifies its
nickname.
The Bolivian government finally built a proper road, leaving the Yungas Road
free for approximately 25,000 mountain bikers every year, although the road is still used by quite a few local motorists as a handy shortcut.
Our day started near the top of the new road with a lengthy but much-appreciated safety briefing from Victor, our guide. Due to various call-offs, there were
only two of us in the group, so it was quite surprising it still went ahead.
Before we get to the Death Road, we have a 20km descent to the main road.
Thankfully, all the cars, buses, and trucks passed us with plenty of
room to spare, although given the many pot-holes and speeds approaching
60km/hr, the potential for serious injury was arguably higher here than on the
Death Road itself.
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Part 1 - Hurtling down a main road at breakneck speeds
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The starting point at La Cumbre (4,700m above sea level)
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Near the top of part 1
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Myself and Marc, my fellow thrill-seeker |
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One of the few action shots!
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The tunnel denoted the end of part 1
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After lunch (at 10am), we were ready for the main event, the Road of Death.
It's incredibly bumpy, almost completely devoid of crash barriers, and
contains sheer drops of up to 500 metres in many places.
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Part 2 - The actual "Road of Death"
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The start of the Death Road proper |
Not long after setting off, our tour guide told us how his brother
nearly died at this point when his brakes failed, but he "got lucky"
and escaped with two broken wrists. Near the middle of the video
below, you might be able to make out our guide describe how the last
bus to fall down the ravine used to be visible until the jungle grew
round the wreckage. There are literally hundreds of irretrievable
vehicles lying way down in the jungle below.
A little further down lie the Devil's Bridge and the Devil's
Tail ...
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The Devil's Tail - one of the most dangerous parts of the road
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The Devil's Tail (and me!)
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Despite its name, the Death Road isn't that dangerous if you don't cycle too quickly and your bike is well maintained. It's still much more dangerous to drive, especially considering how wet and slippery some parts can get. Kudos to our minibus driver who followed us all the way down and had to drive on roads like this ...
Near the end of the road (but still frighteningly high up), we encountered an area where landslides are common. Our tour guide jokingly said we'd have to go climb the 25km back up the mountain to the start in the minibus, and I non-jokingly told him I'd much rather cycle it. Thankfully, he was jesting, and it was plain sailing to the end of the road.
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Landslides are a common occurrence
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Victor, our guide, and me. He insisted on doing a "llama" sign
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The end of the Death Road (900m above sea level)
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And that was the Death Road. I can't recommend it highly enough, and it probably wasn't even the most dangerous activity I've taken part in on this whole trip.
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